POLICE REAR SWAY BAR INSTALL HOW TO BELOW
If you have read any of my threads or Reviews. Almost everyone of them is heavily Based on Best Bang for the buck. I try not to buy the most expensive items. Everything I order is of coursed researched and compared to others. Like most, I spend days if not weeks reading threads and reviews on numerous Forums and websites. This was no different. I didn't buy this new though. After finding out the Police Chargers had larger Sway Bars then even the SRT8's. I started checking Mopar Replacement websites. Then I started thinking. It's 2014 and many Police Dept. have switched over to the new Body style of Chargers. So there has to be a few in Salvage yards. I E-Mailed every yard with in 50 miles. Finally I tracked down a 2009 Police Charger. They quoted me $160 for both front and Rear with all the hardware. When I got there all that was left was the Rear. So I walked away with the Rear Sway Bar with everything. End links, Bushings and brackets. All for $60. Not bad at all. If your on a super tight budget Call around to all the Salvage yards and see if they have any Police Chargers.
What I ended up choosing and Why. I never did find a SRT or Police Front sway bar locally. So I looked around and found the biggest Bar for the best price. Only found 3 under $200. The Addco is almost 35mm and was $190. The Eibach was 30mm and $170. I ended up with the Hellwig at 32mm for just under $135. This seemed to be the best bang for the buck.
So I have $60 in the Rear and $135 in the Front. I have upgraded both front and Rear Sways for under $200. Cheaper then most Aftermarket Front Sway Bars.
Also it's $130 Cheaper then the Eibach kit (Cheapest kit online) and has Larger Sway Bars.
Pictures of my Police Rear Sway Bar.. I repainted it and cleaned the Bushings..Remember I found all this for just $60.
I only took one picture before I painted. It was in pretty good shape, but the end links bushings were toast. The Sway bar Bushings were fine though. So $10 each for end links from O'Reillys and I was set.
Here are the Sizes of Front and Rear Charger Sway Bars from Factory
SE- 25mm Front, Nothing Rear
SXT- 25mm Front, Nothing Rear (might be lucky and have 12mm or 15mm, Touring pkg)
R/T- 27mm Front (a few had 30mm), Rears 15mm
SRT8- 30mm Front (a few had 27), Rears 15mm
Police Package- 30mm Front, Rears 20mm solid or 22mm Hollow
Size of Aftermarket Sways and Approx. Price (without shipping)
Eibach- Front 30mm, Rear 16mm -- Price $329+
Hotchkis - Front 35mm, Rear 19mm -- Price $429+
Belltech - Front 32mm, Rear 22mm -- Price $375+
Stack Performance Chubby Pro - Front 38mm, Rear 19mm -- Price $432+
ST Performance - Front 32mm, Rear 22mm -- Price $378+
Progress Auto - Front 35mm, Rear 22mm -- Price $356+
Whiteline - Front 32mm, Rear 18mm -- Price $384+
Police Package - Front 30mm, Rear 22mm -- Price $112+$90 = $202+ (without bushing)
Hellwig - Front Only 32mm -- Price $139+
Quick Run down on Rear Sway installation in 15 steps
This is how I did mine. I did not have to remove the whole rear cradle, or worry about Coil Springs coming out and was done in less then 2hrs.
1. Measure your Wheel base on both sides. Write it Down. I measured from the edge of wheels.
2. Jack the car up by the pumpkin. Use a piece of wood between the jack and pumpkin. Place a jack stand on both sides lifting just the rear.
3. Leave the Floor Jack in place. Keep tension on the rear suspension in till you remove and loosen the cradle bolts.
4. Remove the wheels and Remove Bottom Bolt from the Shocks.
5. Drop the Exhaust. Mine had a Ground on the rear Passenger Hanger. 13mm I think. Then just pull off the Top of the Rubber mounts. When re-installing them. You can spray some WD-40 and use large channel locks to get them back on easier.
6. Take a Sharpie and Mark your Cradle at all 4 mounts. This will help you line it back up in the same spot. Loosen Rear Cradle Bolts and Remove the front Cradle bolts only. Don't let the rears all the way out. They are circled in Yellow. Remember to just remove the front ones and leave the rear ones in place, but just loose. You want the cradle to drop just the front part. This will allow room to work with, but the springs stay in place and the cradle is much easier to put back up.
7. Fish the Sway bar through over top of Cradle. A 2nd set of hands helps here. Don't bolt anything down yet.
8. Make sure to get the brake lines clear of all moving suspension Parts. You can remove the Calipers in seconds and snake it around stuff to get this right. Helps to do this before the Sway bar is mounted.
9. Grease your Sway bar bushings and slide them on and hand tighten the brackets and bolt up the End links.
10. Jack up the Cradle and slide the front Cradle Bolts back in. Line the Cradle back up with the marks from the Sharpie and tighten down. Measure the Wheelbase again and make sure both sides are the same. (Won't match your first ones since the Rear wheels are still off).
11. Bolt up the End Links.
-The Top of the end link is mounted to the outside of the Sway bar. The bottom attaches to the lower part of the Knuckles.
12. Make sure both end links are straight up and down and the Sway bar is centered.
13. Tighten everything back down and install the Bottom Shock Bolts.
14. Go over every Bolt you Touched and make sure it's tight again.
15. Re-install Wheels and remove jack stands. Finished...Took us less then 2hrs to install but I didn't have an old one to remove either. Measure the Wheelbase again and make sure it matches your very first measurements. It's more important that both sides match and each side as the same wheelbase.
A few of these pictures I missed during the install and was pulled from Google Images.